Elsy Jane: designer

Showing posts with label designer. Show all posts

at 14:17

'In the mirror I see not only my face, but also who I am, who I have always been and hopefully will be for as long as possible. I don't think I'm beautiful, but I do think I'm special' - Sonia Rykiel, 'What I see in the mirror' The Guardian

Yesterday, it was confirmed that the Queen of knitwear Sonia Rykiel died in her home in Paris, aged 86. Rykiel wanted women to look powerful, to give them complete freedom of movement, she embraced and pioneered textile techniques such as exposed seams and created slogan knitwear, although it wasn't new to Paris in the 1960's it was new for knitwear to be so fashionable, which she did so with bold stripes or black and with that, the poor boy sweater was born. It was later spotted by French Elle and featured on the cover of their magazine, notable as at the time couture was the main feature of Elle.

Image result for sonia rykiel 2008 runway

Image result for sonia rykiel 2008 runway

'Everything I do is an expression of myself through colours and shapes, and at the same time, I try to explain what I feel as not only a creator, but also as a woman. I cannot separate one from another.' - Sonia Rykiel

While in her early 20's she married a boutique owner, and when pregnant could not find any clothes she liked among the unforgiving and thick style of clothing at the time and so started to design and make her own stylish, form-fitting and comfortable garments. Her husband started selling her designs and as demand rose she opened her own fashion house on Paris' Left Bank in 1968. Fans of her early work ranged from Audrey Hepburn to Bridgette Bardot, women who sought for freedom of the restrictive fashion of the time. She proposed her pieces to be for all women of different ages.

"A scarf has to be the most beautiful thing ever invented to wear! It a winding, a continuity, an infinity. I love things that are endless I hate them to stop. It's like order and disorder: I rather love disorder and things that can move, it's a state in which I can get things done." - Sonia Rykiel

She created a fashion house with attitude, that promoted feminism and embraced the beauty of women. But not only did she touch many in the fashion industry, but her individuality and charm touched the likes of Andy Warhol who once painted her "I think he liked my hair" she later commented. Cafe de Flore also named a table and sandwich after her, the cafe can be found on Paris' left bank near the location of her fashion house.

"My favourite feature is my hair. It has always made me look different. It was so red when I was born that my mother thought it was blood on my head" - Sonia Rykiel, 'What I see in the mirror' The Guardian

Sonia Rykiel has no doubt left her stamp on the fashion industry and will be surely missed by many. Julie de Libran took over as creative director in 2014, for their latest collection de Libran has included some prints of Sonia, her daughter Nathalie and her granddaughter Lola, which will be released in stores in a few weeks and perhaps this is the perfect homage. Rest in Peace Sonia.

Photo Credit: 1/2/3/4

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'In the mirror I see not only my face, but also who I am, who I have always been and hopefully will be for as long as possible. I don...

at 15:00

Today's post is something new, I'm starting a series of interviews with women in the design industry to be featured on my blog, for my first one we have the talented Lydia Grace, Lydia has experience in the fashion industry and a keen eye for design (the evidence is in her creations), she set herself the challenge of designing and making every garment in her wardrobe in one year. To check out the amazing pieces Lydia has created so far her website link is here 'Made my Wardrobe'

When and how did you get into fashion design?

I started out in costume. I completed a two year apprenticeship with a bespoke costumier in London, where I learnt more than I ever could in a classroom. Since then I have dipped over into fashion, through taking on work and projects with artists and businesses that inspire me, but my heart will always be in costume.

What inspired you to make all your clothes in a year?
I no longer wanted my clothing choices to be constructed for me or dictated by what is available to buy. As I get dressed in the morning I want to feel connected to the clothes I am wrapping my body up in. Wearing clothes I have made is the most honest way I have of being in the world; it is my little way of celebrating and expressing creativity each day.

What does a typical day look like in the studio?
Cycle in, make a cuppa, put some tunes on, and then the fun begins. I will usually have designed what I’ll be making that day laying in bed the night before so I can start straight away by rolling out my dot and cross paper and drafting a pattern. Once the pattern is drafted and checked I will cut my chosen fabric and get sewing. My studio is in the Bristol Textile Quarter where I share the space with 8 other fashion and textile artists. When lunchtime comes around we all tend to sit and eat together. This time gives us a chance to ask each others advice and bounce ideas off each other. Then it is back to my sewing machine for the afternoon, when I will usually listen to a podcast or two before wrapping up for the evening.

What have been your favourite pieces to make and why?
The woolen coat I made in the first week is still one of my favourite pieces. I had never made I tailored winter coat before and I poured my heart into it. Hours and hours of embroidery climb all the way up the back, using beautiful metallic threads, and beads.

What are the biggest perks from creating your own clothes rather than buying them pre-made?
The opportunity to have total creative control over the way you look.

What have been the biggest challenges from creating your own wardrobe?

Lingerie! Bras are my nemesis but I am learning so much by making them.

What is your main inspiration when designing a new piece?
European films, architecture, sunsets, classical ballet..

What keeps you motivated in the studio?
I have learnt to not beat myself up about mistakes and embrace them as an important part of the creative process, but most of all good music keeps me going.

Who inspires you most in the fashion industry, and why?
Vivienne Westwood’s autobiography is one of my favourite reads. The Alexander McQueen show at the V&A blew my mind. Dolce & Gabanna’s catwalk shows never disappoint and the documentary about Dior that came out a couple of years ago was an incredible insight.

What are your plans after the year of making your wardrobe?

Hopefully make a few other people's dream wardrobes come to life, by starting my own small line all made in Bristol.

To find out even more about Lydia Grace and her mission here is her blog, and why not check out her instagram? I hope you enjoyed today's post, also want to be interviewed? Drop me an email.

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Today's post is something new, I'm starting a series of interviews with women in the design industry to be featured on my blog,...

at 06:30

at 07:30

London Fashion Week was last week (which is now last month..) and I didn't have time to look at all the shows. So today I've been looking at them all and there is so much I wanted to talk about I thought I'd do a few posts on it. Starting with the first day.

Roksanda - Blouses and culottes, airy over-jackets and jumpsuits created a soft and light ensemble of silks and sheer material which made a change to Roksanda's last collection;bold and vibrant. The blossom tones mixed with black gave a beautiful collection which I'm yet to fault.

Peter Pilotto - A designer which I wasn't very familiar with, but caught my eye on the London Fashion Week site, I love the amount of skill and technique that has gone into each piece. Embroidery met hints of the '70's with large collars and lots of pencil silhouettes.

Simone Rocha - I hope at 7 months pregnant I can manage opening a store and design a stunning Spring/Summer collection, because that's what Rocha is doing. From the silicone mesh plastic bodices to the pale princess dresses, Rocha brought a cloud like silhouette and an array of prints to her runway.

Issa - The first word that came to mind at this collection was classy, Issa's collections featuring rich blue's, black's and whites was both elegant and sophisticated. Teamed with the coloured heels the whole collection was a favourite of mine and I could see myself in some of the tailored pieces which walked the catwalk.

Ashish - Ashish's collections represent a different side of fashion, and it's no wonder he won the new generation award three times, firstly I'll talk about the clothes- sequins, as expected, teamed with sheer materials, denim and stars, He adds his touch to the collection like he does every show. Ashish as a designer; as I said earlier, is something different in the fashion world, he's filled a whole in the industry which promotes choice. Something that I'd love to see so much more.

So here are just some of the collections which were shown on the first day, it started as it meant to go on -strong and as usual impressive. Which were your favourite collections?

For more coverage on London Fashion week go here.

Photo credit for all photos

London Fashion Week was last week (which is now last month..) and I didn't have time to look at all the shows. So today I've been l...