Rebellious. Innovative. Scandalous. Just some of the ways Hedi Slimane was described by critics after 4 years of service to Yves Saint Laurent. Despite the day it was announced, it was no April fools joke (unfortunately), meaning Slimane became the fourth designer to leave his post after less then five years, joining Alexander Wang who left Balenciaga after three years last July,
Raf Simmons who left Dior in February and Stefano Pilato left Zegna the same month, which he started at after leaving YSL.
Out of his four years at Saint Laurent he is probably best known for changing the silhouette of men's fashion to super skinny, however Slimane didn't just design 'pretty clothes' - his careful touch transformed the iconic fashion house, his designs left critics stunned, his revolutionary fashion brought back the young's love of fashion. He put his print on the extravagant eponymous brand, giving it his own rock n' roll tameless style that brought opinions of disgust and opinions of praise. Despite some's eagerness for a new creative director, it is no secret that Slimane certainly transformed the label - sales grew from about £248 million to £682 million in four years (2011 to 2015) and you must know you're a success when Karl Lagerfield loses 90 lbs just to fit into your clothing.
Slimane's debut collection - Spring 2013, Ready to Wear
There were immaculate suits, clean cuts and billowing blouses, the rock edge aesthetic teamed with 70's shapes and a lot of black was a strong starting point for the designer. The 70's era had never been portrayed like this before- it was refreshing and new. Of course there were the typical ponchos and cloaks but Slimane also created a lasting look from the very start, that has stuck with him throughout his time at YSL.
Slimane's last collection - Autumn/Winter 2016/17 , Ready to wear
When comparing the two collections there is a nostalgic sense of some things that never changed: the big belts, large use of black and skinny silhouette, but every collection over the last four years came out new and fresh, each collection was packed with new ideas.
On many runway shows it's common to see famous faces -Kendall and Gigi to name a few, but Slimane hand picked and scouted his models from emerging bands and youth from the street. Valuing the unconstitutional beauty of his models. In a rare Yahoo interview, Slimane said when he was younger, he was bullied for being so skinny and therefore wore baggy clothing, it is interesting to now see how he hand picks the skinniest of models and uses the skinniest of silhouettes.
On Monday, the new successor was announced - Anthony Vaccarello. Leaving his role at Versus Versace he will start work on his debut collection for the fashion house which will be Spring/ Summer 2017. Leaving us in anticpation of the future of the brand.
Rebellious. Innovative. Scandalous. Just some of the ways Hedi Slimane was described by critics after 4 years of service to Yves Saint Laure...
